There's a choice of 2- or 4-slice models in five colours, or purest, purist stainless steel. There are also neat touches like the slot selector, which means only the slots you are actually using heat up – particularly handy on the 4-slice. The defrost and bagel settings work extremely well. The NewGen produces toast rapidly, with supremely uniform toasting.

Once it is done, you or the timer turns off the elements, but that leaves enough residual heat that you can leave toast to stay warm in the slots. Because of the way the Dualit is designed you can pop up your toast at any time without turning off the heating elements – and then pop it back down if it's not done. The toasting slots are deep and wide, while the manual eject mechanism is cunningly designed so even smaller pieces of toast are pushed up and out once done. This looks and feels premium in every way, and once you get used to how thoroughly and quickly it toasts – and master the very old-school clockwork timer – it's a joy to use.

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